Riding a unitrike is primarily about balance. Being a long-time unicycler I was initially suprised at how different it was to ride - they're capable of a lot more speed than a medium wheeled unicycle due to the down-gearing and forward/backward stability but they are nowhere near as manoevrable. You have a turning circle of a metre and a half at best and they are a nightmare on cambers.
So, technical aspects of unitrikes in a nutshell:

• You lean to turn, but also lean to balance
• Hold the pedals still and you can coast
• Turn the pedals backwards to brake
• Shift your weight forwards and you get better stability on flat and more responsive steering
• Shift your weight back and you get better traction from the main wheel and can handle rough terrain better

When starting off on a unitrike the most important thing is to start on a flat surface (or pointing down a gentle slope if a flat surface is unavailable), make sure you are left/right balanced and push off with as much force as possible.
In my experience there is no great difference as to whether you push off with your dominant foot or not, the important thing is to have one pedal just slightly beyond vertically upwards so that you can get maximum power out of the initial push. The unitrike is more stable the faster it goes.

OK so you lean to balance but you also lean to steer. How does that work?
Well basically you need to think about what your weight is doing in each case. When you wish to balance whilst continuing in a straight line you need to shift your weight without leaning the unitrike. You do this by leaning your shoulders and upper body while keeping your hips directly above the main wheel.
When you are balanced but wish to turn you need to lean the unitrike while keeping your weight centred. This can be done by moving the hips sideways while keeping the shoulders and upper body directly above the main wheel.
It takes some practice but believe me, it does become automatic after a while.

Unitrike brakes are notoriously twitchy, there is a range of about 10 degrees between off and full on. The brake needs to be eased on very gradually, full on will lock the main wheel and, along with knackering your tyre, will easily plant you into the nearest hedge.
For a smoothe dismount your best bet is simply to get your speed as low as possible then hop off forwards and grab the seat behind you.

I've not learned any yet. Will keep you posted.

There are several elements of a unitrike that should be customised for each rider.

• Truck Tension

This is adjusted via the bolt/nut/screw sticking out of the bottom of the truck. Tighter and you get a more stable ride when going straight but turning becomes stiffer. Looser and turning is easier but you lose stability. It's always a payoff.
Heavier people should go for a stiffer truck as extra weight actually makes turning easier because you have more force against the truck.


• Truck Riser

This is the rubber plate betwixt truck and frame which can be adjusted by the bolts at each corner. It is there to add suspension and allow left/right balancing of the unitrike.
The classic mistake people make is tightening these bolts as far as they'll go. That will kill your suspension and ultimately knacker the riser.Don't do it!
If the left/right balance is already good then ideally all you need to do with this is connect the bolts loosely and then tighten them all evenly while wobbling them with your finger. The job is done when they are just tight enough that they don't move when agitated.
However if you have a slight left or right lean you can compensate by further tightening of the two bolts on the opposite side from the direction of lean.


• Seat Height

Fairly simple one this, I generally find the best ride when I can touch the ground with my toes only.